<title> 2010 October</title> > the Craftorialist

‘Nice to Have’ Pattern Making Tools

notcher

Here's my final list of pattern making tools: these are the ones that are not impossible to do without, but are nice to have. A notcher, nicker, or what ever you like to call it. There are always a few points on any pattern that require matching up, like the top of the sleeve head with the shoulder seam, for example. You place a notch in the pattern at the required points, so you can more easily mark those notches onto the fabric with chalk, and then snip into the mark when you are cutting. (Never snip too far into the seam allowance—ie too close to or past the stitching line—or you may end up with a hole you can't fix!) If you don't have a notcher, you can make small, v-shaped snips into the pattern instead that will do the same job. Follow the same rule of not snipping too far in when making your notches; it avoides encouraging that mistake in cutting the fabric later … [Read more...]

UFO 1: Needing Inspiration

Summer coat UFO

For those wondering about the radio silence lately, it's all due to a major move: house and studio all packed up, moved and unpacked (mostly). Normal transmission should now resume. The first UFO (unfinished object) submitted to the UFO Project is a beauty: hand dyed, quilted and embroidered. The artist, Ulrike, is not so much in need of technical advice (she's clearly highly accomplished), but seems to have become stuck in getting it to a point where it feels 'finished', at least for now. Ulrike's adventures in dying, weaving and other textile crafts are beautifully chronicled on her bilingual blog, Handspindel. Ulrike says: Not sure if my biggest UFO is actually an UFO or more like an eternal WiP [work in progress]. But where's the difference there anyway? It's a coat I started to sew nearly four years ago. A summer coat in kimono shape. It was kind of finished Sept '08, when … [Read more...]

How to hand sew an invisible hem

For those of us without an industrial hemming machine, there is a hand-sewn method that achieves the same (if not better) effect. Have a look at this video to see the method in detail. Pin your hem up. You will need to have finished the raw edge in some way (by overlocking or binding the edge). Fold the overlocked or bound edge down so you have a tiny fold. Start at a seam, so you have somewhere to for the knot to catch onto. Pick up a couple of threads on your needle from the back side of the outer fabric, and also a little bite of the tiny fold, and sew through. Repeat this around the hem every 1.5 to 2 cm along. Finish off in the seam you began with. When you press the hem, especially with very fine fabrics, avoid pressing the iron onto the overlocking (or binding) so you don't get a mark on the outside of the fabric. You should have a nice, flat, invisible hem. … [Read more...]

A convertible headpiece

headband

Having a new short haircut, I decided it needed accessorising. A narrow headband with something pretty on the side would be nice. I’d been meaning to make a feathered piece since I saw some beauties last year. But it would also be nice, I thought, to have flowers, ribbony or beaded things too. In a moment of inspiration, I decided to make something that would be totally versatile: a headband with snap-on/snap-off decorations. That way, I can make more decorations as time goes by that snap on as my mood (or my outfit) demands. I started with a slim, plastic headband. You can get these from craft stores or milliner’s suppliers. I put a dab of glue on one end, stuck some ribbon onto the end, and twisted it around the length of the headband, completely covering the plastic, then tucked the other end in with another dab of glue. I used a bamboo skewer to poke the end in … [Read more...]

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