Pattern making > the Craftorialist

Cosy winter coat

Winter coat: front

It's been a rather long blogging hiatus. My mother, who has multiple myeloma, has been undergoing chemo and a stem cell transplant, and caring for her has been one of the things taking up my time (somewhat) and energy (a lot). The cancer won't be cured, but she's on the mend from the chemo now and looking at several more years of health, thanks to some cutting edge treatment. Amazing stuff. So: as I've not stopped making things, I'd better catch you up. I was travelling to and from Melbourne in the last days of winter. I was determined not to be cold; I had a week or so before I left: a new coat was in order. The thing about Melbourne cold is its relentlessness and its piercing wind—a 'skinny' wind, my cousin used to call it—one that's skinny enough to get through the thickest knits. I decided pure wool and a quilted lining were called for. Of course, since unusual is the … [Read more...]

‘Nice to Have’ Pattern Making Tools

notcher

Here's my final list of pattern making tools: these are the ones that are not impossible to do without, but are nice to have. A notcher, nicker, or what ever you like to call it. There are always a few points on any pattern that require matching up, like the top of the sleeve head with the shoulder seam, for example. You place a notch in the pattern at the required points, so you can more easily mark those notches onto the fabric with chalk, and then snip into the mark when you are cutting. (Never snip too far into the seam allowance—ie too close to or past the stitching line—or you may end up with a hole you can't fix!) If you don't have a notcher, you can make small, v-shaped snips into the pattern instead that will do the same job. Follow the same rule of not snipping too far in when making your notches; it avoides encouraging that mistake in cutting the fabric later … [Read more...]

Helpful patternmaking tools

Grading ruler

Following on from my list of  essential pattern making tools, here are some that will make life (when making patterns) a whole lot easier if you have 'em. A grading ruler: mine is in centimetres, but you can get them in inches, too. It's called a grading ruler, but I find I use mine even more for patternmaking. (Grading is taking a pattern in one size and making one size or several sizes up or down from it.) Calculator: very handy for working out circle circumferences, for example. Tracing wheel: I don't use mine very often, but it's damn handy when I do. Generally, it's for tracing lines in the body of a pattern onto a new one (something I will explain later, as it comes up). I'm not sure how effective it would be if you're using Vylene instead of card or paper (see Jody Pearl's comments at the end of my Essential pattern making tools post), but you could give it a … [Read more...]

Essential pattern making tools

square and grading rulers

What you'll need if you want to make your own sewing patterns (or at least alter bought ones). I've split these into categories: essential tools, very helpful tools and ones that are nice to have, but you can do without if you have to. There are two kinds of pattern making, flat patterns (made directly using flat pattern card or paper) and draped patterns (made using fabric on a dressmaker's dummy, model or object, and then transferred to pattern card or paper). This post is about essential tools for flat pattern making. You'll need a Square or dressmaker's rule, for drawing right angles and straight lines. Mine is shown here above a grading ruler, which I find pretty essential, but which I have put into the helpful category, since you could make a pattern without it. I use a mechanical pencil, because it's always sharp, and precision is important. You can use an … [Read more...]

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